Koh
Bon
Koh Bon is one of the best places in Thailand to see
manta rays, especially from April to May, though the last
couple of years have seen Mantas almost year round. Koh
Bon Island lies an hour or so north of the Similan Islands.
It has a 33 metre wall on its south side, facing a small
cove, with a stepped ridge pointing west and down to over
40m. It is at the edge of this ridge that divers are drawn
as they peer into the blue looking for that first sight
of a black and white fin that signals an approaching manta
ray.
Manta rays are not the only reason that Thailand dive
liveaboard cruises visit Koh Bon though. Leopard sharks
are common at the ridge on the sandy flats below the wall,
and white tip sharks can be seen roaming the depths off
the edge of the reef. Soft corals the colours of turquoise,
yellow and green dominate. Listen carefully and you'll
hear the warning clicks of hundreds of nervous damselfish,
and the coral crunching of hungry titan triggerfish, but
don't neglect the wall itself which has plenty of critters
to keep you interested including various types of moray
eels.
To the west of Koh Bon Island lies Koh Bon Pinnacle. This
Thailand diving site lies in deep water (18m - 40m) and
is exposed, so consequently it is only possible to dive
here in favourable conditions with experienced or advanced
liveaboard divers. The west wall is steep, covered in
small, yellow soft corals, and has a large cavern with
a fish trap at its entrance. There is a smaller pinnacle
lying to the north. Making your way back up the mountainous
terrain, keep your eyes out for passing eagle rays, black
tip sharks, and manta rays.
The small cove of Koh Bon provides good grounds for a
night dive. The reef is made up of pore corals, with shrimpgobies
peering out of the holes, and coral ledges. There are
splendid decorator crabs, the intelligent red octopus,
and red and white banded boxer shrimps.
Koh Tachai
Koh Tachai (Tachai Island) lies about halfway between
the Surin and Similan Islands and is rated as one of the
best sites for Thailand diving liveaboards as it's normally
visited on the way to Richelieu Rock from the Similans.
There are several dive sites around the island but the
most famous is Koh Tachai Plateau which lies southeast
of the island, about one kilometre offshore. The plateau
is a submerged crowned reef of hard sheet corals, and
scattered boulders. These boulders provide great swim-throughs
and cut-through opportunities. They also provide refuge
for tired scuba divers caught unawares by the sometimes
hectic currents! This site is renowned for its currents
and a dive briefing on any Thailand liveaboard scuba trip
will include advice on where to find shelter. A dive here
is not for beginners and not always easy but it is worthwhile
because, as any diver knows, where there are currents
there are big fish. Chief among these are manta rays who
make regular appearances and effortlessly glide over the
boulders. Other big visitors are whale sharks and nurse
sharks. Leopard Sharks are common and hawksbill turtles
are often seen. Other common fish you'll see here are
blue-dash and yellow-backed fusiliers, red-tooth triggerfish,
bigeye trevally and unicornfish.
The south side of Koh Tachai is the deeper side, and a
logical place to start your dive. The north side features
a huge abandoned fish cage which is useful as a navigational
aid. At the edge of the coral crown is a cleaning station,
popular with tiera batfish which always makes for a pleasant
safety stop as you hang on the line at the end of the
dive. Koh Tachai is often dived early morning by liveaboard
but also makes a nice sunset dive.
Richelieu Rock
Richelieu Rock rates as one of the best places in the
world to dive with whale sharks and is easily the best
site in Thailand diving for this amazing activity. Encounters
with the whale sharks, the largest fish in the ocean,
are rare almost everywhere in the world. It's not the
only Thailand dive destination where whale sharks are
seen but Richelieu Rock certainly attracts more than its
fair share. With nothing else for miles around, the whale
sharks are attracted to the rock to feed on the rich planktonic
blooms that occur here. A liveaboard charter is your best
bet for diving here, as once they arrive, they tend to
hang around for days, with an entourage of followers in
tow, most notably cobias. Swimming with such a large animal,
known to grow to fourteen metres in length, is a never
to be forgotten experience for any diver. Sightings occur
about 10% of the time. Some dive seasons see more visitors
than others and generally February to April is the best
time for a visit if your aim is to enjoy the exhilaration
of swimming with these massive creatures onboard liveaboards
in Thailand.
Richelieu Rock boasts great biodiversity too and is worth
several dives, with or without whale sharks. It consists
of one main, horse shoe shaped splintered rock pinnacle,
with several other smaller rocks around its edges. The
limestone rocks are covered with anemones, sea fans, barrel
sponges and soft corals of all kinds. From tomato anemone
fish, yellow boxfish, white-eyed moray eels and mantis
shrimps to nurse sharks, manta rays one metre Malabar
groupers and chevron barracuda, there's always plenty
of life to grab your attention on this dive.
The problem for underwater photographers diving Richelieu
Rock is which lens should you dive with. On the one hand
there's the resident frog fish and seahorses that make
such willing macro photo subjects. Mating cuttlefish and
octopus are also common sights. Then, on the other hand,
there's the chance of something really big swimming by
and leaving you wishing that you'd selected your wide
angle lens! Richelieu Rock can be a deep dive but there
is also plenty to see at shallow depths all the way to
the surface. When the currents are strong there are always
places to find shelter.
Surin Islands
The dense and extensive reefs of the Surin Islands have
the greatest hard coral diversity in Thailand. Though
the soft corals and fish diversity are not as good as
some of the other Andaman Sea destinations, you will find
lots of turtles here and fish species that you won't see
in the Similans, such as Napoleon wrasse, bumphead parrotfish,
barramundi cod, yellow-mask angelfish and tomato anemonefish.
Not many liveaboard dive cruises visit these islands.
This is not because the diving in Surin is inferior to
other Thai destinations, but rather due to the greater
geographic remoteness and the short four day schedules
of popular scuba safaris - not enough time to take in
Similan and Surin. This means that when you do visit here,
you'll find there's still a beautiful corner of Thailand
that you can enjoy without sharing it with hordes of other
tourists. Located 7 km south of the Burmese border and
68 km north of the Similan Islands, this island group
was designated a national marine park in 1981 and is made
up of two main islands - Surin Nua (North) and Surin Tai
(South) - plus three smaller islets and two rocky outcrops.
The islands are uninhabited except for the national park
camp and a traditional Mokken sea gypsy village (the same
group that roam the Burma Mergui Archipelago). The world
famous dive site of Richelieu Rock lies 15 km further
to the east.
Along the east coast of Koh Torinla a hard coral plateau
breaks the water's surface at low tide. Large fields of
staghorn corals and massive porites corals dominate the
shallows. Cardinalfish, humpnose bigeye bream, twin-spot
and five-lined snappers profilate. Just off the coast
lies a 120 metre long rocky ridge that acts as a magnet
for fish life. Pinnate batfish, blue-lined and pickhandle
barracuda are common on the deeper east side that drops
to 31 metres, and Spanish mackerel and grey reef sharks
often pay fleeting visits. White tip reef sharks frequently
rest on the surrounding sands or can be spotted cruising
the ridge top at 7 to 25 metres.
To get back to the reef slope you'll need to pass over
an expanse of sand, where eagle rays and shovelnose rays
occasionally travel. This area hosts mantis shrimps and
the endemic Andaman, or blue-spotted, jawfish. You may
be lucky to sight this most colourful family member hovering
above its rubble burrow. Else you may be even luckier
to see it peering out of its burrow, replete with a full
brood of eggs delicately balanced in its protective mouth.
At the South East Point of Surin Tai two parallel jumbles
of boulders run out perpendicular from the shallow reef
flat into deeper water, where strong currents can whip
up and attract reef sharks. Shelter in the refuges provided
by these rocks and spend some time examining the soft
corals and fans for harlequin ghostpipefish and robust
ghost pipefish. Black and blue ribbon eels and cowrie
shells also inhabit the rubble floor and crevices here.
Back on the reef slope you can capture your breath whilst
ticking off Andaman rabbitfish, Indian sailfin tang and
Andaman sweetlips (wite body with black dalmatain-like
spots and yellow tail). The Surin area has some particularly
attentive titan triggerfish, acting like over-protective
parents guarding their unborn young - don't you just love
'em?
One of the major attractions of Surin is snorkelling.
This is because in many places the reefs have grown right
up to just one metre or so below the water's surface,
bringing the marine life that much closer to the snorkeller.
This is particularly so at Koh Torinla in the south and
Koh Chi in the north. Here the reefs are very healthy
and black tip reef sharks, conspicuous only by their absence
from the Similan Islands, are regular visitors. This means
Phuket liveaboard charters to Surin are ideal for non-divers
and avid divers alike.
Many of Thailand's islands boast fantastic scenery and
Koh Surin is no different. Indeed, many visitors claim
that the topside beauty of Surin's verdant evergreen forests,
laced with small beaches and mangroves, surpasses even
that of the Similan Islands. If you get the opportunity
to take a walk through the forests then watch out for
crab-eating macaques, flying lemurs and flying foxes,
as well as deer and squirrels. Bird watchers can enjoy
sightings of hornbills, Nicobar pigeons, collared kingfishers,
drongos and babblers, as well as birds of prey such as
sea-eagles and kites. Turtles still follow an age-old
ritual to come ashore here and lay their eggs. The hatchlings
enter the Andaman Sea and swim as far as the Nicobar Islands
and the east coast of the Malay Peninsula.
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